Pleated skirts have undergone a sophisticated makeover for spring.

The usually preppy schoolgirl style comes in all shapes and sizes this season, from mini and midi skirts to box and accordion pleats, but the update didn’t stop there. This sweet-meets-edgy look embraced spring trends, like cutouts and florals too. So keep your pencil skirts at home and put a bounce in your step with these flirty cuts.

But first, a few tidbits to keep in mind:

The Fit
Go for a ladylike feel rather than a badgirl style. The neat pleats can add an air of sophistication to an otherwise casual look. If you’re tall, go for the midi length. If you’re petite, opt for for a style that hits just above (or at) your knees.

The Fabric
You want a fabric that is crisp enough to hold the shape of the pleat yet airy enough to flutter in the wind. Summery, lightweight cotton, sleek silk, and a breezy eyelet works wonders with the swingy shape.

The Outfit
Look to balance out proportions. If you go for a full, pleated skirt, pair it with a fitted top. For mini lengths, try a button front blouse on top to add a polished edge. To make your pleat pop, work a monochromatic color scheme, like the Nina Ricci’s spring 2014 runway look (above, left), for maximum impact.

Browse through the gallery to shop our favorite flirty styles of the season.

Pick up the May issue of InStyle, available on newsstands and for digital download, for more features like this!