In InStyle’s April issue, Eric Wilson takes a look at the amazing work of Karl Lagerfeld, speaking with the iconic designer while he put together his collection for Chanel’s annual Métiers d’Art show in Dallas, this year comprised of a cowboys-and-Indians runway that paid tribute to the history of Texas (pictured, below). An excerpt of their chat follows.

Why do these shows keep getting bigger and bigger?
Why not? It’s not just a fashion show, it’s like telling a story. And the shows are a business too. They are seen by nearly a billion people around the world.

Really, a billion people?
Unbelievable, unbelievable. Apparently. That’s what I’m told.

So why are you now directing a movie about Coco Chanel?
I could ask somebody else to do the movie, but I want to do everything myself. I’m only interested in what I’m doing. For this movie, we rebuilt the studio the way it was in 1954.

When are you going to write a book?
I have nothing to say. [Model Stella Tennant enters, wearing a white blouse with Western fringe.] Perfect. Gloves! Gloves! Gloves!

Karl LagerfeldCooper Neill/Getty Images for Chanel

How do you know when a look is just right?
When I think it looks OK. And inner voices. There are no rules.

But there must be some!
[An assistant shows Largerfeld a bag with a decorative scarf tied to its handle.] I don’t like a scarf tied to a bag. That is one thing that I hate in life. Very bourgeois.

Well, what do you think about Coco Chanel’s famous rule about always taking off one piece of jewelry before you leave the house?
It was a much more restrained look back then. My idea is to make believe something is very Chanel, even if she never did it. That’s the job.

This feature originally appeared in the April 2014 issue of InStyle. For more stories like this, subscribe to the magazine now.