Luck was not on Olivia Pope’s (Kerry Washington) side during Thursday night’s new episode of Scandal. She struggles over her relationship with Fitz, her father is plotting against the administration, and Quinn (Katie Lowes) pulls a gun on her. Pope’s world seems to be crumbling right before her eyes and that’s reflected in the dark wardrobe she wears throughout the episode. “Nothing is going well for Olivia, and she doesn’t know who to trust anymore,” costume designer Lyn Paolo tells InStyle.com. “She is literally in the dark about a lot of things, so we kept her in darker colors.” Somber or not, Olivia Pope still knows how to rock a fitted jacket!

Mellie Grant (Bellamy Young), on the other hand, goes bold in this episode, wearing a blush Melinda Eng gown that pays homage to the Jackie Kennedy portrait hanging on the wall in one scene. “We weren’t sure if the audience would catch it!” Paolo says about the striking resemblance between the two First Ladies. “[The dress] has a similar construction and drape that Jackie’s did, but it’s a modern reinvention of it.”

For more details on last night’s looks, look through the gallery. Then, be sure to check back here next week for more Scandal fashion!

—Janelle Grodsky